𝐃𝐨 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐥𝐢𝐯𝐞 𝐢𝐧, 𝐨𝐫 𝐤𝐧𝐨𝐰 𝐨𝐟, 𝐚 𝐁𝐨𝐰𝐨𝐨𝐝 𝐇𝐨𝐮𝐬𝐞 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐂𝐚𝐥𝐧𝐞 𝐂𝐨𝐦𝐦𝐮𝐧𝐢𝐭𝐲 𝐀𝐫𝐞𝐚?

As part of the Calne Community Neighbourhood Plan, we are attempting to map all of the buildings constructed by the Bowood Estate.

We would like to do this to ensure that these buildings are recognised by developers and other stakeholders for their significance to our Community Area. We would also like them to be considered as heritage assets due to the important contribution that they make to the distinctive local character of our Community Area.

 

The houses were built by the Bowood Estate, mainly during the 1800s, as houses for employees and retirees of the Estate. A common design of the stone-built houses are the red bricks used for window surrounds, door frame, and corners, with a prime example being number 82 at the Studley crossroads. However, the earlier houses are purely stone.

 

The majority of the houses were built at Derry Hill and Studley, which was the principal estate village until the mid-1900s. There are examples further out from the Bowood Estate, which show the influence the Estate had on the wider Calne area.

Many of the houses have the ‘Double L’ date stones in the front of the building, often in the gable, like the one in the attached photographs. There may be variations of this design, while some may not have the stone.

If you are able to, please head over to our interactive map to see assets already added, and to add those that you’re aware of:
https://www.placecheck.info/app2/maps/calneheritage

Alternatively, contact me directly.

 

Unfortunately, the Bowood Estate does not have information on the houses, but think that there may well be around 100 in the area.

Calne Curiosities: The Flooding of Mannings Hill

In this series, I will investigate some strange, and some not so strange, curiosities in the history of Calne and the surrounding area.


Is it said that due to Capability Brown's desire for a perfect pastoral scene at Bowood, he ordered the flooding of a village known as Mannings Hill by the Whetham stream to create the lake of Bowood gardens.

One apocryphal story tells of one old lady who refused to leave her house, only leaving when the rising waters finally reached her hearth.

Could it be that so many people were turfed out of their homes for the absolutely luxury of flooding the valley for the sake of a lake?

Read on to discover the truth behind this tale...

Bowood Lake

When walking towards the tranquil lake at Bowood, watching the geese and great crested grebes go about their lives, it feels like this body of water must be a natural feature. It can be difficult to imagine that the lake has existed for little longer than 250 years. However, the lake was created by the ever-famous Lancelot “Capability” Brown, by damming the north end of the valley.

Brown first visited Bowood in 1757 just three years after John Petty had purchased the Bowood estate with its unfinished house. While Brown was more than complimentary about Bowood, this two-day stay, for which he pocketed 30 guineas paid by his host, did not seem to be an immediate success, partly due to Brown revealing no thoughts about how he may go about making improvements to the garden. 

In fact, it took until 1762, a year after John Petty had died, that a lengthy agreement was signed between Brown and William Petty; John’s eldest son and successor. An inauspicious beginning which led to a visionary Grade I listed, 2000-acre parkland, with the lake as the crowning glory, that has delighted visitors since Bowood opened its doors in 1975.

The agreement of eight articles, made clear the details of Brown’s plan, such as to ‘make a good and sufficient Head, to cause the Water to flow in such a shape and manner as is agreed to by his Lordship’, improvements and enlargement of the pond below the lodge, and to make a path around the great Pond Head, etc. The total recorded cost of Brown’s work at Bowood was £4,300, close to £500,000 in today’s money, paid in stages between April 1763 and completion of the work in 1766.

The lake was the principal feature of the works, created with the construction of a dam, which allowed the waters of Whetham brook and Wash Way stream to slowly fill the valley. To ensure that the lake could reach its potential, land was purchased, which included acquiring land on the opposite bank from George Cary in 1766. This land contained the hamlet of Mannings Hill.

Mannings Hill (likely called Wodelands in earlier times), named for the Mannyngs family that owned the land at one time, was first mentioned in a deed of 1328, whereby the estate was granted some land at nearby Pinhills, the cost: “rent of a rose”, which was likely a nominal ground rent and not usually demanded in practice.

As Mannings Hill had been left to the Master and Senior Fellows for Clare Hall, Cambridge, for the express purpose of educating ‘two poor scholars’ at the college, a special Act of Parliament was required for the 1766 purchase by Shelburne. 

With no objection given the Act was passed and the property, which included a pew in Calne Church, was purchased at a cost of £1074 18s 9d, with the condition that the Master of Clare Hall immediately invest in real estate for future scholars.

There are different versions of the events, the most extreme suggesting that the rising lake eventually subsumed the village. A less extreme version tells us that the half a dozen houses were taken down for the land to be overflowed with water to become the lake. Cottages were built for the displaced residents, possibly at Sandy Lane.


Over time, even the idea of a village or hamlet under the waters of the lake became myth; with rumours of an ancient church steeple visible at times. A myth it remained, until a 2007 underwater expedition revealed what truly remains. Some 20 years after Lord Lansdowne himself ventured into the pitch-black lake in search of the lost village, the amateur divers of Calne Sub Aqua Club deployed sonar, kit not available to his Lordship during his dive. Speaking to The Independent in 2006, Jon Dodsworth commented, “It seemed to be the foundations and wall of a cottage, as well as the remains of a dry stone wall that was probably the boundary for the garden or to divide a field”.

While there is no church steeple, we can conclude that buildings do remain, seductively hidden, in the waters of Bowood Lake.

So, yes, people were displaced from their homes to aid Capability Brown's desire for a perfect pastoral landscape at Bowood.

Route 014: Bowood Circular

This 6.5 mile walking trail will lead you through the Rights of Way paths around the beautiful grounds and lake of the Bowood Estate.

Important information:

Parking is available in the lay-by opposite Pillars Lodge. Take special care crossing Silver Street (A3102).
Additional parking is available at the Calne Leisure Centre / Kingsbury Green Academy car park , following the path down to the start point.

This trail is accessible from Pillars Lodge to the bridge by the lake and back again, creating a 1.2 mile (2 km) trail.

There are not many benches along this trail. The Black Dog Inn is worth a visit, when open.

Please make sure that dogs remain on a lead as there are livestock in the fields. Part of this walk goes across a permissive path, for which walkers are welcome.

Directions:

1) This trail begins at Pillars Lodge. The gate pillars that give this Grade II listed, early Victorian, cottage its name, used to be much closer to the road, but have been moved back as the road has been widened.

This part of the trail is a single track for just over half a mile. When you reach the fork in the track, continue straight on, ignoring the right fork that leads to Pinhills (and upon which track we shall return).

Shortly after Pinhills, to your right, is Hilltop Plantation. At Hilltop, behind the woodland, a scatter of Romano-British pot including Savernake, North Wiltshire coarsewares and combed tile have been found in the past.

As you continue, there are some gaps in the woodland, revealing beautiful countryside. One sweet name is Half Moon piece, named for its shape. Evidence suggests that this piece of land has been a wooded plantation for at least 180 years.

2) As you reach the bridge that separates the silt pond from the lake, you will enter Coombe Grove, which is held back by retaining walls.

The Bowood Lake and garden were designed by Capability Brown in 1762. His idea of using a silt pond to ensure that the lake remained as clear as possible, was a good one, as the silt is also 'harvested' from the pond to use on the fields as fertiliser.

The bridge itself leads to Pond Tail Lodge and is Grade II listed and has an arched opening on the north side to feed the lake.

If you're keeping to the accessible track, then now is a good place to turn back as the track isn't as well kept further on.

If you're continuing, take the gate on the right of the track to follow the lake.

3) Cross the grassy bridge and continue through the large white metal gate. Turn right to follow the path alongside the lake.

It can often be the case that you have the RoW around Bowood more or less to yourself - and what a beautiful landscape it is.

4) This whole landscape is a Grade I listed park and garden. With views across the lake, it is not difficult to see why. 

Believe it or not, under the waters lie the remains of  the village, or hamlet, of Mannings Hill.

The rising lake eventually subsumed the village, with cottages built for the displaced residents, possibly at Sandy Lane. One apocryphal story tells that one old lady refused to leave her house, staying until the rising waters reached her hearth.

5) Follow the path around to the right. Cross the dam, via the kissing gates, that separates the lake from the ponds that are fed by Wash Way stream. 

To the right of this bridge you will hear a cascade, built c. 1765. There is no public access to the cascade, which is Grade II listed and likely another Capability Brown feature, but it is created of two high steps of tufa. The water from the pond supplies this cascade from a covered opening, which falls into a brick-lined circular tank.

6) Follow the well-worn path and go through the kissing gate beside the wooden gate. Continue along the path to the right edge of the field, following the blue 'Public Footpath', which will lead you across the middle of the field, often occupied by sheep. 

7) Follow the path through the kissing gate, at the end of this field you will be at the tarmac track that connects to an old farmstead called The Osprey, which as its origins back in the 1750s.

Turn right and follow this track, with the golf course to your left. The wood, a little further on, to your left is called Brick Kiln Wood and was the home to a Brick Works back in the 1800s.

8) Following the blue 'Public Footpath' signs, provided by the Bowood Estate, will take you past  a tree plantation and The Osprey.

Shortly afterwards, you will take a right. Then a left, following a short way to the east.

Then take another left to follow the path into the woodland.

9) Continue to follow the path through the woodland. Eventually, you will have the gold course to your left. 

You will then notice that the access road into Bowood House and Gardens is visible on your right. 

Continue onwards, until there is a gap in the trees. This will allow access to the access road. Follow this through the large white gates and onto Church Road.

Straight ahead is the 1873-built house and village hall, which was previously a school and built for the Bowood Estate.

10) After exiting Bowood onto Church Road, turn right onto Old Road. taking in the varied beautiful houses along this road; which used to be called Rag Lane.

11) At the end of Old Road, turn right onto New Road (A4), keeping to the pavement.

At a group of cottages, the path becomes a driveway before ending. At this point cross the road, taking good care.

Continue in the same direction on the other side of the A4, crossing Norley Road.

12) Shortly after Rumsey Farmhouse, you will be treated to the fabulous view of Cherhill White Horse and Black Dog bridge, designed by Mark Lovell, for the millennium. The main arch of this bridge utilises redwood glue laminated (glulam) beams and is a fantastic advertisement for the Sustrans cycle route that it serves. 

13) Just after the exit road from Bowood House and Garden, the path begins on the south of the A4 again. When it is safe cross the road. You are now walking alongside the runoff stream from the Bowood Lake, which will join the River Marden near the bridge.

As you continue under the bridge, take a moment to take in the architecture of the bridge. Then turn right up the track to Black Dog Halt. 

As the top of the incline, you'll be greeted by the two dogs of Black Dog Halt. The gate and railings were designed by artist, Laura Lian, after winning a 1988 competition to separate the cycle path from the residential houses, including the old station master's house. 

14) Head left (south east) away from the bridge. 

You will walk past the old station master's house, dated 1874, with a version of the Lansdowne crest. The bungalow before this house was part of the stables when the halt was operational. It has since been converted into a lovely bungalow by Patrick Wiltshire, who called it Patrick's Folly.

Continue along the cycle path for around 0.75 miles / 1.20km, until you reach a gate on your right with a notice stating 'Permissive Right of Way to Wenhill Lane'.

This field leads you towards Wenhill, at the end of the field, pass the gate onto the track, turning right towards Wenhill Cottages.

Shortly, you will see a blue 'Public Footpath' sign. Follow this into the field and you will reach a Bowood information board.

15) Continue along the well-worn path, which differs to the Right of Way shown on the OS maps and no longer provides any access.

16) Eventually, you will see a gap in the hedge ahead. Cross the wooden plank bridge and the stile, keeping to the left edge of the next field.

 

17) Follow the path to the left at the next blue sign and cross the stile. 

Turn right and follow the path as it curves and reaches an access road to the Bowood Estate. 

In the grounds of Pinhill farm, which is to the right of the cottages, is an L-shaped house, said to have been constructed from the ruins of the manor house by Ambrose Blake. The moat remains as a scheduled monument. The moat was drained on 8 January 1644 and the manor house destroyed by Royalists as part of Civil War action. There was no fighting here, with the Parliamentarians surrendering. 
After the end of the Civil War, Ambrose was back at Pinhills. His son, Henry, became MP for Calne in 1695, 1698, and 1701. It seems that being a Royalist did not hinder the families progress after the Civil War.

18) Join the access road walking away from the cottages and through a young avenue of trees.

Eventually you will join Pinhills Lane, which quickly joins the access road that we started on at the start of the trail. 

Continue towards Silver Street and the end of the trail.

Thank you for using this route!

Map from the lovely folks at OpenStreetMap. © OpenStreetMap contributors

Jan Ingen Housz: Anniversary of his death at Bowood, 7 Sep 1799 - Part 2.

This plaque is located outside the door of Calne library and reads:

Jan Ingen Housz

The Dutch physician, Jan Ingen Housz MD, FRS (1730-1799) was doctor in the Austrian Royal Family but was in England in 1779. Before returning to Vienna he spent that summer performing over 500 experiments in a house near London.

These proved, for the first time, that the green parts of plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen in sunlight: in other words they purify the air we breathe. At the same time the carbon absorbed is converted to starch so that plants are also the ultimate source of all our food. We therefore commemorate the genius of Ingen Housz, the discoverer of what we now call photosynthesis.

He returned to live in England later in life and was a frequent guest at Bowood House, where he died. He is buried in Calne, in a vault under St. Mary's Church.

The decorative paving was created by members of the Calne Artists Group: David Reeves the overall design and ceramic leaves, Vivien ap Rhys Price the head of Ingen Housz from a 1768 medallion. Photocast of Liverpool cast the bronze.

Book Review: Who was Ingen Housz Anyway? by Norman and Elaine Beale

This short book is a wonderful introduction to the life and times of scientist Jan Ingen Housz, who lived in Calne for a time.

While the main body of the book is only 36 pages, the authors have packed in a great deal of well written information and interesting illustrations and photographs. Beginning with the origin of the Ingen Housz surname along with Jan's birth and situation, the book progresses with Ingen Housz's rise as a smallpox inoculator and the lifelong friends he makes along the way.

From being headhunted by royalty for his expertise in inoculation to eventually self-exiling himself back in England during the time of revolution - and violence - on the continent, this man had a colourful life. But that's just some of what happened to him, not the things he did.

The book goes on to explain the experiments that are the foundation of what we understand about photosynthesis, through Ingen Housz's experiments at a rented country house in Southall Green, just outside London, and the role of carbon dioxide in the creation of organic matter.

The book concludes with the memorial in St. Mary's Church in Calne that occurred in 1956 and describes the plaque placed there in Ingen Housz's honour.

That such a man of science spent time in the area of Calne, but is basically forgotten is terrible, to my mind. Such good treatment of Ingen Housz made this a really enjoyable book to read: it was long enough to get across a lot of information, but not so long as to get bogged down in too much detail.

This book is available to loan from Wiltshire library.

Jan Ingen Housz: Anniversary of his death at Bowood, 7 Sep 1799